Women in Whisky

They may still exist, the eternal champions of the symbols of masculinity in our world: fast cars, heroic demeanor, rough beards, cigars and a glass of good single malt - yes, whisky is often celebrated as a “proper man’s drink”. However those willing to look past these rigid boundaries and outdated role models will realize quickly that women have, and still do play a huge role in the world of whiskies. Women have been present in the whisky industry, and been responsible for the success of important distilleries such as Laphroaig, Maker’s Mark and Cardhu.

Cardhu and Laphroaig as women-run distilleries and historical models

Contrary to what often appears in whisky history, women already held important positions at the end of the 19th century. One of them was Helen Cumming, who, along with her husband, the whisky smuggler John, is considered the founder and the actual boss of the traditional Cardhu Distillery in the center of Speyside. As early as 1824, the year the distillery was founded, she took on important tasks by managing sales and selling whisky from the window of her farmhouse in addition to running the distillery, which was still working without a license. In order to keep the business a secret from the police, she pretended to be a baker and also explained the smell of grain that could be heard around the distillery.

The story goes that Helen would then regularly, while officers drank tea in her parlour, hoist a flag to warn other Speyside distilleries in the valley. By later handing it over to her daughter-in-law Elizabeth, the successor was also realized by a woman, always with the support of Helen, who reached the proud age of 98 and thus pulled the strings up to the 1990s. Elizabeth, in turn, increased the capacity of the distillery and the necessary establishment of new facilities, which enabled a three-fold increase in production.

Historically, however, Helen and Elizabeth Cumming were not the only women in their profession. The conglomerate Beam Suntory also has two examples from history that people like to remember on International Women’s Day: Bessie Williamson as the former owner of the Laphroaig Distillery, who was the first woman to officially manage a Scotch whisky distillery from 1954, and Margie Samuels as Co-founder of Maker’s Mark, who dipped the first bottles in her kitchen in melted wax herself, ensuring the brand’s unmistakability that is still established today.

Emma Walker – Master Blender at Johnnie Walker

The surname is actually a coincidence, but maybe it is also a bit of destiny that Emma Walker found the right place as Master Blender with Johnnie Walker of all people. Since she started at Diageo’s Technical Center in 2008, her career in the group has been determined. As the head of the 12-strong team, the qualified process chemist is not only involved in the production of the Johnnie Walker Blends based on an impressive 10 million available barrels of Scotchbut also with numerous interviews asking about her role as a woman in the whisky industry. She personally never really realized that she was working in “a male domain”, also because of the balanced gender ratio at Johnnie Walker.

Everything that is important in her everyday work does not depend on her gender, but on her experience and her ability to perceive and appreciate aromas and use them to create new creations. She always benefits from her chemical studies, which gives her an intensive understanding of all processes associated with whisky production.

Cara Laing – Director of Whisky at Douglas Laing

Unlike Emma Walker, Cara Laing’s surname is no coincidence - as Director of Whisky, she embodies the third generation of whisky company Douglas Laing & Co. Her journey into the whisky industry began when she was nine. She attested the status of the Port Ellen whisky she tasted at the time as “the most disgusting stuff” – and until her dissertation there was no longer any sign of a renewed rapprochement. The research work at least brought her back to the world of spirits by looking at Ready to Drinks and “things like Smirnoff ice”. Her subsequent interview at Whyte & Mackay (group of companies that also includes Jura and The Dalmorebelong) eventually piqued her interest in whisky without really making her want to work for the industry. Instead, she wanted to join the company’s “vodka campaign” - a wish that (fortunately from today’s perspective) remained unfulfilled.

By the way, anyone who asks why Laing didn’t just go straight into the family business will get a clear answer from her: “I wanted to prove that I could make my own career” - a path that her father also supported and even recommended to her. He was also sent out into the world by his father to find the right place for himself before this journey led back to the family business. Cara Laing also ended up here as Director of Whisky in 2013, after three years as Global Manager at Morris Bowmorehad worked. At Douglas Laing she is a kind of jack of all trades, taking care of marketing and sales, packaging, new brands, monitoring all processes between kegs and bottles, taking samples and looking after the production team and even the social media channels.

Caroline Martin—Master Blender at Diageo

Caroline Martin’s fine nose and outstanding sensory skills accompany her in her daily work for the Diageo Group. In her role as master blender, she controls the quality and consistent taste of numerous established whisky blends such as Johnnie Walker and J&B Rare Whisky. In addition, she creates new products from the Diageo stock.

On this basis, there are hardly any limits to the desire to create and Martin can create new blends to his heart’s content. A particularly notable result of this rich product range is the new edition of Roe & Co Irish Whisky. She and her team tried out more than 100 prototypes made from different Irish whiskies before the final composition was decided. In 2021, Caroline Martin announced she was planning to retire after her 35-year career and “incredible journey.”

With Emma Walker and numerous other women at Diageo, worthy successors are already ready. At Bushmills, as one of the oldest whisky distilleries of all, the important position of master blender has been in the hands of women for decades.

Alex Thomas succeeds Helen Mulholland as Master Blender at Bushmills

2021 was the year for Master Blender Alex Thomas - because she was able to follow in the big footsteps of her 30-year predecessor Helen Mulholland and thus continue the female legacy of Bushmills Irish Whisky. She was born with this new “privilege”, as she calls it, as her birthplace is in Ballymoney, just 15 minutes from the distillery building.

Before being appointed Master Blender, she had already worked for the distillery for 17 years and therefore knows the processes and procedures like the back of her hand. The best conditions to take on the honorable task and to continue the traditional task of whisky creation at Bushmills. Again, she’s no newcomer, having been in charge of her own whisky, known as The Sexton Single Malt Whisky, prior to the turn in her career.

Julieann Fernandez – Master Blender at Distell

One of the world’s youngest master blenders is Julieann Fernandez, who as such works for the Distell Group, which in turn owns the Bunnahabhain, Deanston and Tobermory whisky brands. But not only the young age characterizes the 30-year-old, but also the recently awarded “Icons of Whisky” award for Scotland. She was also awarded the title “Master Blender of the year”, which already highlights her as one of the most important representatives of her industry. The award represents an enrichment for the entire whisky industry and is not just limited to the reputation of the distillery.

By winning, Fernandez has also qualified for the race for the “Global Icons of Whisky” award and, with a little luck, could also receive it in March. Before delving into making great malts, Fernandez studied forensic science. Through an internship at a research facility for whisky, she got to know the industry and sealed her career with the orientation that began with it. Today, their contribution to the whisky range is manifested in their participation in a total of 25 limited malts and two additions to the range.

Gillian Macdonald – Head of Analytics & Whisky Creation at Glenmorangie

Gillian Macdonald is designated as Head of Analytics and Whisky Creation at Glenmorangie. Behind this lies a wide-ranging and responsible job. With her team, she buys raw materials such as barley malt, casks and yeast, carries out daily quality controls for Ardbeg and Glenmorangie single malts and puts together recipes for new batches in the laboratory. Before a cask can be filled, the contents must first pass through Macdonald’s nose and palate - because she assesses whether the time has come or whether the whisky needs a little rest.

The variety that comes with her job is what Macdonald particularly loves. Like Emma Walker, before she was employed at Ardberg, she studied chemistry, which is still of great service to her today, especially when working in the laboratory. After university she worked for The Welsh Whisky Company as a blender and distiller. Gillian Macdonald has been responsible for Glenmorangie whiskies since 2012.

Angela D’Orazio - Master Blender at Mackmyra

Angela D’Orazio is something of a veteran among whisky connoisseurs, having entered the industry more than 20 years ago. She was then working for Glenmorangie before making her way to Sweden to set up a whisky bar at the Akkurat restaurant in Stockholm. After organizing the first Guinness World Record whisky tasting in 2001 and co-founding the Scotch Malt Whisky Society in Sweden, she met Mackmyra there. She has been the company’s Master Blender since 2005.

In 2019, she was finally inducted into the World Whiskies Awards Hall of Fame, where she is the second female person alongside Helene Mulholland. This means that she is officially one of the indispensable and unforgettable people in her industry. Magnus Dandanell, founder of Mackmyra, recognized the value it brings to whisky making. Above all, he appreciates D’Orazio’s “great skill, her comprehensive technical know-how and her excellent feeling for aromas and taste”.

Sarah Burgess, Polly Logan & Kirsteen Campbell - The Macallans Trio

It is something special when you look at the photo of “The Macallan Whisky Mastery Team” on the homepage of one of the best-known whisky producers and half of the six people are women. The traditional distillery has achieved what others only talk about or dream of. With the composition of the team, which includes Sarah Burgess, Polly Logan and Kirsteen Campbell, Macallan benefits from a wide range of skills that guarantee sustainable quality.

As a Master Whisky Maker, Campbell brings a broad and in-depth understanding of flavors and how to combine them, Sarah Burgess, Lead Whisky Maker, contributes her expertise in developing and innovating whisky types and her experience in cask quality and selection. And finally, whisky maker Polly Logan is responsible for analyzing and monitoring the development of younger stocks.

Rachel Barrie and Kirsten Ainslie - Master and Assistant Blenders at Brown-Forman

Under the direction of Rachel Barrie - who was the world’s first female Master Blender - Kirsten Ainslie made her way to Assistant Blender at Brown-Forman. With the recent addition of an assistant, the two women are now jointly responsible for the group’s Scotch whiskies, taking care of quality control as well as new product development and the selection of high-quality casks.

Ainslie’s career began with a job as a bartender, which helped pay for her Master’s degree in sociology at the University of Edinburgh. She then did an internship at Glasgow Distillery Company where she was introduced to whisky and gin distillation before becoming Lead Distiller at John Crabbie. She then received her new position at Brown-Forman under Barrie’s stewardship. In addition to American whisky brands such as Jack Daniels and Woodford Reserve, the company also includes the Scottish distilleries Glendronach, Benriach and Glenglassaugh.

Julia Nourney - Independent Spirits Consultant and Whisky Connoisseur of the Year 2007

Julia Nourney has an exceptional role in the whisky and spirits world - and not just because she is just another woman among many men here. Her job is also special, because she works from Oberursel near Frankfurt as an independent spirits consultant. As such, she has been involved in a wide range of activities for over twenty years: lecturing, conducting tastings, focusing on sensory abilities and the appropriate setting for the enjoyment of whisky, grappa and other spirits.

She also works as an author for numerous specialist magazines and, as a jury member in various competitions, is often allowed to judge the quality of different spirits. For example at the Stockholm Beer & Whisky Festival. Her portfolio rounds off her advisory role, which she specifically offers to distilleries. Thanks to her many years of experience, she can support you with her knowledge of production, maturing phases and the development of new products. None other than the Scottish industry giant Glenfiddich awarded her the title of “Whisky Connoisseur of the Year” in 2007.

Marianne Eaves - Kentucky’s first Bourbon Master Distiller

Marianne Eaves, Kentucky’s first female bourbon master distiller, is likely to play another special role in the whisky line-up. She has found a very special way of passing on her knowledge to others as she travels the USA with her mobile whisky laboratory. Born in Tennessee and raised in Kentucky, she was born with her career. A chemical engineering degree from the University of Louisville and later an internship at Brown-Forman further spanned her path before Castle & Key Distillery made her a Master Distiller. Many other demonstrations of her skills followed, including being included in the Forbes “Food & Drink 30 under 30” list in 2015. Today she travels the USA as a “consultant and ambassador” and is always aware of her role as a woman who is bringing new wind into the male-dominated industry.

Whisky as we know it today would be a very different world without women

To these amazing women who tireless produce, blend and market the water of life we of Whiskipedia say Slàinte Mhath!